The purpose of the next guide would be to help the beginner do-it-yourselfer accomplish his/her first drywall repair, with reduced steps, tools and materials. Since most of the homes I repair come in the Cincinnati, Ohio, area, I will focus this discussion toward conventional drywall, finished with a smooth texture. If parede de drywall em sao caetano do sul are constructed of plaster, I wouldn’t recommend attempting a repair yourself. With plaster, it is best to leave it to a professional professional.
Drywall repair is really a straightforward process that just about any homeowner can figure out how to do. Given that homes today are built with lumber inferior compared to that of generations past, movement of drywall from warping and shrinking in the home’s framing causes a variety of drywall-related problems. Therefore, many homeowners will need to repair corners, cracks, screw pops, tape seams, along with other drywall imperfections that accrue as time passes. Furthermore, damage from water intrusion, household accidents and normal deterioration necessitate a periodic drywall repair to help keep the walls looking good, especially before they’re painted.
Drywall Repair Tools and Materials
Go to your local home improvement store and buy:
(1) 4″ Drywall Knife
(1) 12″ STAINLESS Mud Pan
(1-qt) All-Purpose Joint Compound
(1) Drywall Sanding Sponge
(1-qt) Latex-Based Drywall Primer
(1) 2″ Angle-Tipped Paint Brush
1. Depending on the amount of drywall repairs required, remove an appropriate level of joint compound (or “mud,” as it is commonly described) from the plastic tub making use of your 4″ drywall knife and scrape it off into your 12″ mud pan. The theory here is to keep the joint compound fresh in order that is doesn’t dry out-so only take just as much mud out as you can use within 10 minutes. Otherwise, “chunks” of drywall mud develop, making your drywall repair a lot more difficult.
2. Briefly work the drywall mud backwards and forwards in your pan several times-like you would knead bread dough. This removes air from the mud in reducing bubbles when you place it on the wall.
3. Apply a thin coat of drywall mud to the crack or dent. Utilize the knife to scrape the mud flush with the encompassing surface of the drywall. It is better to apply two or three 3 thin coats of mud (allowing each coat to dry in between applications) versus one thick coat. One of the most common mistakes I see with drywall repair is mud that is applied too thick. This rarely results in an excellent surface and makes for more time and mess during the sanding phase.
4. Allow the mud to dry. Dry time is highly influenced by type and brand of compound, thickness and quantity of mud application, along with ambient temperature and humidity of the room. To be able to accelerate dry time, grab a hair dryer to dry the region (as observed in this picture of my craftsman Drew).
5. Once the drywall mud is totally dry, place a drop cloth below the region of drywall repair, as you’re going to create a mess next! Use your sanding sponge to sand the area flush with the rest of the wall. Use lighter pressure as you finish to avoid gouging or scratching up your projects. Some people prefer to have a buddy hold a shop vacuum around the region to suck up all the drywall dust while they work. If you decide to do this ensure you have a drywall dust or HEPA filter installed-otherwise you’ll just find yourself blowing the dust throughout the room.
6. Take a damp paper towel or cloth to wipe down the drywall repair to eliminate any remaining dust. You can even work with a wet cloth or sponge to “wet sand” the region to get an extra smooth effect, if desired.
7. Using your small paintbrush, apply a light coat of primer to the drywall repair. This will seal the joint compound, hide the repaired area, and prepare it to accept paint.
8. When painting the drywall repair, I recommend painting an entire section of the wall, if possible. Even if you have gone over paint from once the wall was originally painted, or purchased new paint with same formula because the original, it is unlikely to match. Walls age and collect dirt after a while, altering their appearance and color. Hence, when you can paint a whole portion of the wall, up to a corner or seam, the difference of “new” versus “old” paint is less visible.